Mains · By James
Sicilian Swordfish, or Other Fish
Sharon's and my trip to Sicily (May, 2022) began with a mystery fish and a brand new recipe. We grabbed some groceries on our way from the airport to our AirBnB, and saw these huge slabs of beautiful fresh fish, but didn't know what type (Italian labels). We got 4 huge steaks cut from these slabs, and later used Google translate to discover that we had lucked into fresh swordfish. One of Sicily's classic dishes is this robust tomato, olive stew with seared swordfish (Pesce Spada alla Siciliana) as we quickly discovered with an internet search. We cooked it that first night, with the sharp salt tang of the Strait of Messina wafting through our BnB on the shore. Later we discovered that most of the Sicilian swordfish are caught in this Strait. We've found that Safeway carries frozen swordfish steaks, and so now make it in the landlocked prairies. Despite this emphasis on the fish part of the dish, it is actually the tomato/olive/caper stew which is the real highlight of the dish — so wonderfully textured with nuts and chunks of tomato and olive, with amazing layers of flavor (a beautiful balancing of acidic and sweet in particular) — you will be mopping up every last bit with your crusts.
Ingredients
- 4 swordfish steaks, 1½ inches (3.5–4 cm) thick (wonderful as well with tuna steaks, or any fish)
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Seaweed salt, to taste (can substitute sea salt)
- All-purpose flour, for dredging (about ½ cup)
- 6 tbsp (75 ml) extra virgin olive oil, divided
- 1 medium (8-ounce; 225 g) red onion, diced
- 3 cloves garlic
- 4 cups small tomatoes, quartered or halved, or one 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes with juices, tomatoes roughly chopped (if using fresh small tomatoes it will be a little less saucy)
- 3 tbsp capers (gently squeezed to remove brine)
- ½ cup (2 oz; 57 g) pitted green olives (such as Castelvetrano) halved lengthwise, or Kalamata olives (or a combo of the two)
- 1 tbsp chile flakes
- 1 tsp anchovy paste
- 2 tbsp Mutti tomato paste
- Red wine vinegar and/or granulated sugar, to taste (optional)
- 3 tbsp pine nuts or rough-chopped pistachios, lightly toasted
- 6 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, rough chopped
- ½ cup lighter red wine (can use a Pinot Noir or Sangiovese, and serve rest with the meal)
- Rind of 1 lemon, and juice of ½ of that lemon
Method
- 1
Add 3 tablespoons oil to large non-stick skillet along with the diced onion and the garlic. Cook until onion has softened, about 4 minutes. Add tomatoes, capers, olives, chile flakes, anchovy paste, and cook, stirring, until tomatoes have broken down and their liquid has thickened, about 5 minutes. Season with salt.
- 2
If desired, add 1 or 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar and a bit of sugar to balance the sauce's flavor; whether you decide to do this will depend on the flavor of the tomatoes you're using, and how far into agrodolce/sweet-sour territory you want the sauce.
- 3
Stir in pine nuts/pistachios and parsley (save some parsley for garnish). Turn off heat.
- 4
Spread flour on a plate. Blot off excess moisture on the fish steaks. Working one piece at a time, dredge steaks all over, wipe and shake off excess flour, then transfer to a platter.
- 5
Season swordfish both sides with some salt and pepper (don't over-salt, as you will add seaweed salt to the top after they have cooked).
- 6
In a separate large non-stick heavy skillet, heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add swordfish steaks and cook until well browned on first side, about 6 minutes. Flip swordfish steaks and cook another 4 minutes. Add more oil if needed during cooking so steaks don't stick (flour coating can become sticky).
- 7
Sprinkle finished steaks with seaweed salt.
- 8
While the steaks are finishing their last minutes of cooking, turn heat back on for your tomato, olive mixture. While it is reheating, add your lemon zest and juice, and the red wine.
- 9
Taste and salt mixture further if needed.
- 10
Serve the hot tomato, olive mixture into pasta bowls, then nestle your hot swordfish steaks into the mixture in each bowl. Top with remaining chopped parsley and serve with warm, crusty rustic bread.
A note from James
Drink/wine pairing: usually a white wine would be paired with seafood, but swordfish is a complex, rich fish and lighter reds, like Chianti (Sangiovese) or a pinot noir, work very well. With the richness of the tomato/olive sauce, they are preferred here to a white.
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