Mains · By James
Steak Tartare
I had not tried steak tartare until having it at the famous Czech restaurant in Edmonton, Bistro Praha, during the National Music Festival of 2008. Cam's string quartet (Kumiko, Teagan, and Lawrence) were competing. It was a heady time, with this being the second Nationals in which the quartet had performed. The backstory to the tartare was a conversation that Susan Witt had with us about how her late husband, Ivan, had loved Bistro Praha when he was doing his medical studies at the U of Alberta. In particular, he had loved their steak tartare — Ivan was Czech, and Czechoslovakians love steak tartare (called Tatarak)! It's apparently found on virtually every bar and restaurant menu. Since we were going to Edmonton shortly, Susan said that we had to try it out. Not surprisingly, when hearing of a strikingly new food experience, I did have to try it. That was the beginning of a new love affair, and I have since, as Sharon will attest, hunted for steak tartare around the world (in reputable restaurants, given the raw meat). The evening at Bistro Praha was amazing, with the kind of enthusiastic/passionate service that a small family-run restaurant can do so well. We were wined and dined royally, and by the end of the meal felt that we knew the owner. As we were leaving, he came with us into the hallway leading out, clearly pleased with our enthusiasm. On the spur of that moment, I asked him if he would share some of the secrets of his tartare recipe. I had nothing to write on and pulled the used National Music Festival ticket out of my pocket to scribble on. He proceeded to itemize every ingredient, although not with amounts, which I suspect is because it was not a paper-copy recipe, but one that was a part of his being. The words "some" and "to taste" were frequently used. Bistro Praha is still an institution in Edmonton, one of the go-to gourmet experiences in the city for almost 50 years! And, as of 2024 they still have their famous steak tartare on the menu, made with shaved beef tenderloin!
Ingredients
Bistro Praha (Edmonton, AB) — non-specific recipe written on the back of a "National Music Festival" ticket (2008)
- Fresh tenderloin steak, shaved (not written on the ticket — just assumed)
- Capers
- Egg yolk
- Fresh garlic
- White onion
- Worcestershire sauce
- Caraway seed (no longer a secret ingredient)
- Hungarian paprika (another not so secret ingredient — probably the most common, Edesnemes, the "Noble Sweet," usually found in NA as Hungarian Sweet Paprika)
- Olive oil, "a bit"
Another version, with amounts, based on Anthony Bourdain's Steak Tartare (for 3 servings)
- ¾ pound fresh top sirloin, finely hand chopped (don't use food-processor)
- 1 egg yolk
- 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
- 2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped (or 1 tsp anchovy paste)
- 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
- ½ tsp hot sauce (like Tabasco, Cholula, or Valentina)
- 1 tsp freshly-ground pepper
- 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- ½ ounce cognac
- ¼ cup finely diced white onion
- 2 tbsp capers
- 2 tbsp dill pickles, finely diced without seeds
- 2 sprigs of parsley, finely chopped
Bourdain's Version
- 1
Place egg yolk in large bowl with mustard and anchovies. Mix and beat it for a while until yolk thickens.
- 2
Add Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, pepper, and mix well.
- 3
Slowly drizzle in olive oil to emulsify it with this egg mixture.
- 4
Add cognac, onion, capers, pickle, and parsley and fold in.
- 5
Add chopped sirloin to this mixture and mix together with hands. Make 3 patties with it and serve on chilled plates with toasted rye-bread or pumpernickel (thinly sliced and buttered).
A note from James
I have not tried to reproduce the Praha tartare at home (I would be the only one eating it), so can't offer advice as to amounts. However, tartare is sometimes served with the beef separate from the various additions (onion, garlic, capers ...), and the individual decides how much of each they want to mix into the beef, personalizing the experience. So whoever tries the Praha mix first, let us know what worked for you. Drink/wine pairing: lighter reds like a Beaujolais or a light pinot noir. A good brut sparkling wine/champagne or a drier Rosé (Provencal Rosés are often really good) will be excellent as well.
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